Archive for the ‘Lawn Care Problems’ Category

Drought

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009

Drought can be a very big problem that affects the overall health and appearance of your lawn. Learning how to recognize and treat drought in its early stages can save you time, money, and your lawn.

These are the stages of drought:

  • Temporary drought results from a lack of moisture for up to a week. It is characterized by a dark grayish hue. To identify temporary drought, look for a dirty green that doesn’t spring back quickly when stepped upon. You can confirm dryness by probing the soil with a screwdriver or a butter knife. If it is relatively hard to push in and moist soil doesn’t stick to the probe, it’s too dry.
  • Permanent drought comes from an extended period (a week or more) of no moisture and is easily identified by brown or straw-colored blades.
  • A history of drought is the final phase and is recognized by a dry area with sparse plant growth.

1. Temporary drought: Notice the dark smoky color in the center of the image in contrast to the healthy green grass around.

2. Transition: This is how your lawn may look in a later stage of temporary drought. It hasn’t yet passed the point of no return.

3. Permanent drought: Characterized by dead blades and a straw color, this stage will require new growth for green to be restored to this part of the lawn.

4. A history of drought: Dirt is all that remains. There is some new growth emerging.

The 3 most common reasons for drought and what to do about it

#1 – Uneven Watering

While it is possible that when your sprinkler system was installed, it was fairly even, over time the weather and other external forces cause sprinklers to self adjust. This becomes readily apparent as the weather starts to dry in late spring, where you will see signs of drought in certain areas.

Solution: To fix this problem, take the following steps:

  1. Place several containers of the same size and shape around your coverage area to catch the sprinkler water.
  2. After a good watering, observe each container to see where coverage is high and where it is low. This will help you determine which areas are not being reached as well.
  3. Take this knowledge and adjust the sprinklers to better water the dryer areas. (Use a hose sprinkler to augment watering in dry areas until sprinkler system is adjusted)
  4. Repeat these steps until you have restored an even coverage.
#2 – Shallow Watering

It is logical to assume that if your lawn is dry, more water is required. That statement is true up to a certain point. I mean, hey, if your lawn is dry while watering it every day, it makes sense to water it twice a day right? Well no, not really. Frequent, 15 minute bursts of watering keep it very shallow. This allows other players to steal it from your lawn, like the sun or new, germinating weeds. It may not be that your grass isn’t getting enough water, but that their roots are missing out in what’s needed. By the time the water finally gets past the crown and into the roots, the sprinklers are turned off, thus resulting in drought.

Solution: Water deeply and as needed. We recommend about ten inches of moist soil before you stop watering. Not only does this reserve more of the water for the grass roots, it also causes them to delve deep into the soil, giving you a healthier, greener lawn!

#3 – Uneven Drying

Some areas of your lawn may dry quicker because of more sunlight or sandy or rocky soil. This could cause those areas to go into drought while the rest of your lawn remains healthy.

Solution: Augment your watering so it covers those areas more deeply. If this is not possible, water your whole lawn very deeply 2-3 times a week.

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White Grub

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Appearance: Creamy white, thoracic legs, dark head, C-Shaped.
Type of Damage: Browns out the lawn causing it to pull up like a rug
Peak Damage Season: Late July – September
Treatment: Insecticide

How do I know if I have White Grub?

Mature white grubs range between 3/8 – 2″ long. They have a creamy white, C-shaped body with a dark head. Hairs and spines along the posterior end are also defining characteristics.

The damage caused by the grubs causes the lawn to brown out in spots and spread rapidly. Pull on these areas with your whole hand. If White Grub is at fault, it will pull up like rug and you will see them in the soil.

When is White Grub most common?

While most common in the late summer months (July – September), we have seen White Grub damage as early as April.

How do I get rid of White Grub?

To control the problem, apply insecticide directly to the affected areas and check back weekly for improvement. Repeat this until the spreading has ceased and you can see the grubs lying dead on the soil (this should be within a week or two). The lawn will then naturally repair itself as it continues to grow back in the affected area(s) within the next four to six weeks.


For more information click here: http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/white-grub07.pdf

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Sod Webworm

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Appearance: Caterpillars approximately 3/4 to an inch long. Beige, green, brown or gray, with four rows of distinct brown spots along the abdomen.
Type of Damage: Browns out the lawn causing it to pull up like a rug.
Active Damage Season: Late June – September
Treatment: Insecticide

How do I know if I have Sod Webworm?

In the caterpillar stages, Sod Webworm is usually ranges between 3/4 to an inch long. While their heads are a dark brown, their bodies will either be a beige, green, brown or gray, depending on the species. Four rows of distinct brown spots line the abdomen from which stiff hairs protrude. It is in these caterpillar stages that the damage is done to your lawn.

The adults are a buff or brown moth with up to a one inch wingspan. You will see them flying above the lawn in jerky zig-zag patterns in the early morning or late evening, or if you mow or disturb the lawn. At night, they are attracted to lights. The adults do no damage to the lawn.

The damage caused by the caterpillars causes the lawn to brown out in spots and spread rapidly. Pull on these areas with your whole hand. If Sod Webworm is at fault, it will pull up like rug and you will see the larvae on the soil.

When is Sod Webworm most common?

After the dormant caterpillar transforms and emerges as a moth, the first generation begin to lay the years first generation of eggs late in June. During their 35 days as a Caterpillar, a Sod Webworm can eat up to four square feet of grass. This life cycle continues until the weather starts to cool in late fall and the larvae curl up for the winter in the soil.

How do I get rid of Sod Webworm?

To control the problem, apply insecticide directly to the affected areas and check back weekly for improvement. Repeat until the spreading stops (should be within a couple of weeks). The lawn will then naturally heal itself as it continues to grow and spread back into the affected area(s).


For more information on sod webworm click here: http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/sod-webworm07.pdf

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Cranberry Girdler

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Appearance: Dirty-White or Gray, brown-orange head, up to 3/4 of an inch. No distinct markings like Sod Webworm.
Type of Damage: Browns out the lawn causing it to pull up like a rug
Peak Damage Season: July – September
Treatment: Insecticide

How do I know if I have Cranberry Girdler?

In the Caterpillar stage Cranberry Girdler is characterized by a dirty-white or gray color with brown-orange heads. They can grow up to 3/4 of an inch in length and while similar to Sod Webworm, bear no distinct markings. Also known as Subterranean Webworm, Cranberry Girdler spends its time in the crown and roots of the lawn beneath the surface.

The damage caused by the caterpillars causes the lawn to brown out in spots and spread rapidly. Pull on these areas with your whole hand. If Cranberry Girdler is at fault, it will pull up like rug and you will see the larvae in the soil.

The Adults are moths with tube shaped bodies about 1/2 an inch long with a 3/4 of an inch wingspan. Their wings are a buff-color with brown and creme stripes and three black dots near each wing tip. They are active during the night and can be found flying near the ground.

When is Cranberry Girdler most common?

While most common in the late summer months (July – September), we have seen Cranberry Girdler damage as early as April.

How do I get rid of Cranberry Girlder?

To control the problem, apply insecticide directly to the affected areas and check back weekly for improvement. Repeat this until the spreading has ceased and you can see the caterpillars lying dead on the soil (this should be within a week or two). The lawn will then naturally repair itself as it continues to grow back in the affected area(s) within the next four to six weeks.


For more information click here:
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/cranberry-girdlers07.pdf

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Billbugs

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Appearance: Small, white, legless grubs
Type of Damage: Browns out the lawn causing it to pull up like a rug.
Peak Damage Season: June – August
Treatment: Insecticide

How do I know if I have billbugs

Most common during the hot summer months (June and July), the larvae are small, white, and legless resembling white grubs. Larvae infiltrate the stem of the grass causing the plant to wither and die. You can tell if you have a billbug problem if the grass pulls up easily like a rug and is readily apparent that the stems have been hollowed out. You will notice brown spots, often mistaken for dollar spot disease, in the affected area.

Adult billbugs are brownish-black beetles with long snouts, however, they do no damage to the lawn.

I have billbugs, what do I do now?

Because larvae develop over the summer, insecticide is recommended as soon as you notice the symptoms. At Turf Plus, we will hand spray the affected area and return each week till the problem subsides at no additional charge.


For more information on billbugs click here: http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/billbug07.pdf

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